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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.